Following Poachers Illegally Trapping China's Protected Songbirds.
The activist's vision darts across miles of dense fields, looking for any movement in the inky blackness.
He utters a hushed tone as they attempt to locate a place of cover in the open area. Behind us, the sprawling city of Beijing remains asleep. During the vigil, we hear only the quiet of the morning.
And then, as the sky begins to brighten with the approaching day, the sound of footsteps emerges. The hunters have arrived.
Snared
In the skies above us, countless migratory birds, many so small that they could rest in the cup of a hand, are traveling to the south for winter.
They have utilized the long summer days in northern regions, eating bugs and berries. As the year comes to a close and icy winds bring the initial freeze of winter, they journey to warmer places to nest and feed.
There are 1500-plus bird species, accounting for thirteen percent of the planet's species – more than 800 of those are migratory birds. Several of the major flyways they follow intersect in China.
The patch of grassland where we were, on the fringes of the Chinese capital, is an haven for small birds – any further and the urban landscape offer few options to rest among forests of concrete.
It is equally attractive for the poachers and their "barely visible nets", so thin you can hardly spot them.
The trap we stumbled upon was stretched across half the length of the field and propped up with wooden sticks. At its center, a small finch was desperately trying to escape, but the more it struggled, the more its claws became tangled.
This was a protected songbird, a species under protection in China, and an important "indicator species" – which signifies if its population is healthy, so is its ecosystem.
Pursuing the Poachers
The conservationist, in his thirties, carries out this mission for free using his personal funds. He has forgone many sleeping hours to rescue birds, and he has spent the last 10 years persuading the police in Beijing to take this crime seriously.
"Back in 2015, authorities were indifferent," he states.
So he gathered a team who were concerned and formed a group called the Bird Protection Unit. He held public meetings and brought in the officials of the local police and forestry bureau. These small and persistent acts of persuasion have shown results. The police realized that catching poachers also led to identifying other kinds of criminal activity.
"We found our objectives became partially aligned," Silva says, adding the caveat that enforcement is still patchy.
His passion for avian life began during childhood. He was raised in the 1990s in a very different Beijing.
He recalls roaming through the grasslands on the city's edges where he found birds, frogs and snakes. "However, beginning in the 2000s, the transformation was dramatic."
China's booming economy brought a huge influx of rural workers to cities. This fast-paced development meant grasslands were seen as land for construction, not protected zones to preserve.
This shift shocked him. The grasslands started disappearing, as did the habitats they supported.
"I decided back then to pursue environmental protection and I followed this course," he says.
It has not been an simple journey. One of Beijing's biggest bird dealers found out he was being investigated by Silva and retaliated.
"He assembled several of his accomplices who surrounded me and beat me up," Silva remembers. He says he went to the police but those responsible were not brought to justice.
He has also seen the departure of his army of volunteers over the years. This work demands covert operations and lost sleep. Silva says not many are willing to take on the difficult – and sometimes dangerous job.
"I do this full-time," he says. "I treat it as a mission because if you want to address this major issue, you must give it your all. You cannot be half-hearted."
He says fundraising pays for some of the costs – over 100,000 yuan a year – but support has waned because of the economic situation.
So he has found new ways to hunt the hunters.
He studies satellite imagery to find the trails worn away by the poachers. He charts these against the birds' migratory routes and looks for areas where they may stop for the night. The aerial views can even show lines of net traps which can capture hundreds of small birds at night.
"Siberian rubythroats and bluethroats command a high price," Silva says. "In urban centers like Beijing and Tianjin, those who want to own songbirds are now often affluent."
While there are wildlife laws in place, Silva reckons the fines to punish the crime do not exceed the potential profits of catching and selling songbirds.
Keeping a caged bird was – and for some people in China, still is – a status symbol. This originates from the imperial era. Nobles and elites would build ornate bamboo cages to display their birds.
This custom that persists mainly among retired men in their later years. Silva says some elderly citizens may not understand they are breaking the law, or grasp that numerous birds were killed in a trap so they could buy a pet.
"This generation didn't even have enough to eat in their youth. Now with some disposable income, they have inherited the practice of keeping birds in cages," he says. "China developed so fast, there was no time to educate people about ecology. Once people's attitudes are formed, they're really hard to change."
Apprehended
Along a riverside path in Beijing, a vendor has several tiny enclosures with tiny twittering birds.
Another man is positioned near a nearby market holding a bird cage shrouded in a dark cloth. He informs passers-by quietly that his songbird is rare, worth about 1900 yuan.
This offers a view of an old Beijing where informal vendors have created their own market.
The path by the river extends over several miles and on a typical day, there were people looking at everything from old trinkets to dentures.
We were told that protected birds could be bought in a nearby green space. The location was not concealed.
Loud music played from a speaker under the low trees where a group of elderly ladies were performing a fan dance. Nearby several men, all in their later years, had gathered with bird cages – some had multiple in their hands. Most were covered in dark cloth.
But on this occasion there would be no sales because the police had arrived. They were questioning the bird owners and taking names. Defiant, one man said he was {taking his caged bird for a walk|simply exercising his